Review: Sango Sands, Durness

View overlooking sandy cove at Sango Sands Oasis

Location: Durness, 5 hours north of Glasgow or Aberdeen, 6 hours north of Edinburgh,
Website: Sango Sands Oasis
Map: Google
Camping Facilities: Car camping
Grade: B
Stargazing: Overcast on our visit but probably quite good
Summary: Nice option to camp along Scotland's northwest coast
Thoughts: Seven days isn't a lot of time to see a big city, let alone an entire region/nation the size of Scotland. With it's varied scenery and abundant hiking opportunities, there's a lot that one can do to experience the "natural" environment (gotta use the quotes folks, the UK as a whole is on the extreme development end of rural area modification spectrum). But when you're doing a circuit of the nation, trying to get a flavour for the coasts, the lochs and the mountains, and factor in the travel time (lengthened due to the many single-track roads in the northern regions of Scotland) and you're lucky if you can solid day hike in. Camping then becomes a huge part of getting the full out-of-doors experience when you're cooped up in a car for so much of your journey.

Sloping but relatively spacious campground

We had planned to make Durness part of our trip from the very outset, given it's seeming remoteness at the far NW corner of Great Britain. Surely it must be unlike anything we'd experienced to that point, we thought. And we were right, the trip up there was spectacular, with many beautiful coastal bays and mountains to drive past. And we were also lucky to find a nice campsite in Durness where we could take in the sea air while we slept, at the Sango Sands Oasis campground.

Path to the edge of the bluff overlooking the Atlantic

The campground was relatively spacious, nestled amongst inspiring coastal scenery. The is a nice short hiking path with a boarded path that takes right to the edge of the bluff overlooking the North Atlantic Ocean. It's a mesmerising sight to take in, even on the cloudiest of days.

A very handy sheltered dining area

The amenities were good, with tables provided for sit-down, leisurely dining in the cooking shelter. It sure beats having to battle the wind and rain while you try to shovel your breakfast down before it loses all remnant warmth. The layout of the campsite was haphazard (per usual for UK car camping), setting up where ever you could find a suitable spot. The area we were able to find was sloped, so it didn't make for the most comfortable sleep, but you pitch your tent right next to your car, so that affords a certain convenience.

Delicious haggis at Smoo Cave Hotel

There is also excellent food available in town, with the Smoo Cave Hotel serving some of the (purported) best haggis in the area. In fact, it isn't made in Durness, sourced from a specialist butcher a few towns away. This was my first time tasting haggis, so I can't comment on its ranking, but it was delicious; a buttery flavour that reminded me of black pudding. When I mentioned this to the barman, he glared back at me with what I guessed was a mixture of irritation reserved for tourists and pity that I didn't know what I was talking about.

Panorama of the Durness coast

Review: Lazy Duck hostel, campsites and eco-huts, Nethy Bridge

A campsite adjacent to a fire pit (with log bench)

Location: 30 mins NE of Aviemore, 3 hours N of Edinburgh
Website: Lazy Duck Hostel
Map: Google
Camping Facilities: Car camping, space for 4 tents
Grade: B+
Stargazing: Good, but not much open space to view...
Summary: Good campsite to explore the Cairngorms
Thoughts: I was pretty excited to find some rustic camping opportunities in the Cairngorms, someplace that was central, with good access to the many hiking opportunities in the area. After some on-the-fly internet searching, my partner found Lazy Duck and it seemed to tick most of the boxes:

• Forested tent sites without many neighbouring sites (only 4 sites available)
• Opportunities for hiking nearby
• Relatively good access to pubs (in Aviemore)
• Option to use a fire pit. 

All things that aren't easy to find while camping in the UK.

On-site hiking trail

One of the staff feeding the
namesake ducks

We were quite happy with the experience overall. The cooking area was sheltered and you access to flush toilets. The "lazy ducks" were fun to watch while you enjoy a peaceful rest by the pond. And we even appreciated the onsite hiking trail, which allows you to get a feel for the woods. The outdoor forest shower was also unique, one that I recommend if you want a "getting in touch with nature" hygiene experience.

In sum, this is a fine camping option that gives you the comforts of home in a peaceful outdoor setting while allowing you access to some great hiking in the nearby mountains.

An additional fire pit was located next to the cooking shelter

A bench at the terminus of the hiking trail

Review: Cashel Campsite, Loch Lomond and the Trosachs National Park

Loch Lomond from Ben Lomond

Location: An hour from Glasgow
Website: "Camping in the Forest" website - Cashel Campsite
Map: Google map
Camping Facilities: Car camping
Grade: C+
Stargazing: Very good
Summary: No caravan? Sleep in the ditch.
Thoughts:  Before I get into my review of the campground, I need to talk about midges. This was the first place I ever camped in Scotland, having wanting to see Loch Lomond ever since I first heard John McDermott crooning about her bonny shores when I was wee. But the Irish Tenor never paid sufficient tribute to the Highland midges. To be honest, I had been warned of midges, but didn't think much of them because, you see, I'm from Canada and we have mosquitoes the size of ravens, stalking around our campgrounds, and dreaded black flies that carelessly tear your flesh as they finish feasting on your delicious circulatory fluid. Clearly nothing can compare to these. I mean, really, how bad can a tiny flying flea really be? Listen Canadians, they're bad. They're really bad. They're actually horrifyingly bad. They're relentless, they don't fear the sunlight and they strike in swarms when you're tired & sweaty and simply trying to reap the rewards of your arduous hike! We got halfway up Ben Lomond on a beautiful late summer (mid-Sept) day and were stunned. Just as I was snapping a few photos, they descended with their fury, a dozen tiny, itchy pin-pricks all at once, never pausing for a moment's mercy. Then they'll itch for a good day or so. So be warned - bring some DEET or bring some meshy hats. Cover your skin as much as you can bear. Otherwise, take shelter.

You can camp on the verge if you don't have a caravan

Okay, enough about midges, on to the review of Cashel campsite. First, it's very conveniently located, just off the main road to Ben Lomond. I noticed a lot of people complain about the quality of the road leading up to it, but truth be told, I don't recall it being that bad. We pulled up and tried to track down the person responsible - the office closes a bit earlier than I'm accustomed to, and I believe we caught them right at the end of their shift (I think it was around 5ish). I was a bit taken aback when we were told where to camp at Cashel campsite. "You can set up anywhere on the grass there". "There" being the grassy median between the roads in the campground. Adjacent to the toilets and wash-up area. Convenient, yes. Pleasant? No. I definitely felt like a second-class citizen (resident?). Yes, it's true, we didn't have a camper van or a caravan or whatever you want to call it. But we're still human beings.  I mean, the campground itself couldn't be more beautifully situated along Loch Lomond. But if you don't have a vehicles that gets 2 miles per gallon, you cannot by any means sleep next to the Loch? It's a bit odd. I would have thought we would be rewarded for having versatile accommodations that can be plopped down anywhere we can squeeze. But the nice sites are for the folks who camp with kitchens and duvets, I'm afraid.

A handy map of the Ben Lomond hike

Look, I get it. A lot of the sites are rented seasonally by folks who own these homes-away-from-home. I know the site is not intended to preserve the natural environment or encourage low-impact camping. It's a business, with a first-come, first-served attitude for access to the prime waterfront campsites. But a tiny patch can't be reserved for the tourist who might be passing by, looking for a place to stay next to the beautiful lake nestled amongst the mountains?

I guess I'm just disappointed with it all. But it doesn't mean you can't find a nice spot to snap a few photos of the sun setting behind the mountains, casting a few golden rays on the lake (see below). You just can't fall asleep while doing.

Some final comments. The campground itself is in very good condition, where the toilets are spotless, the washing-up area is tidy and useful. Again, I noticed on the reviews on their website that a number of people thought the toilets were shocking. It may just be a matter of differing standards, but I thought they were quite good overall. Plus the setting is absolutely gorgeous - this on its own is a good reason to stay. The hiking close by is also excellent, with many beautiful views available (see the map provided here for some inspiration for Loch Lomond). My only major complaint is that better accommodations should be provided for campers who sleep on the ground, rather than on beds.

"The steep, steep sides of Ben Lomond"

Sunset over Loch Lomond

Review: Badrallach Campsite, near Ullapool, Scotland

A site on the Badrallach campground

Location: 45 minutes from Ullapool
Website: Badrallach 
Map: Google Maps
Camping Facilities: 

Bothy, campsites, and cottage
Grade: B
Stargazing: Very good
Summary: Beautiful location, simple facilities, sloped spots for tents, watch for midges
Thoughts: We had been driving all day, not really sure where we would end up when we did our internet search and found Badrallach Bothy. The Guardian informed us that this was one of the best campsites in the UK - to that point this was damning with faint praise (keep in mind my being accustomed to Canadian camping). But after considering it a bit, it seemed like everything we would want; close to the ocean, remote, and a genuine Scottish camping experience. I can say that we were not disappointed, by any standard of campsite.

The string of sites at the campground
(bothy in background)

We pulled up and knocked at the cottage located on site, and asked about a campsite. The price (£7.50 pp per night; Sept 2015) seemed reasonable and the setting looked fantastic. You drive in on a undulating, narrow road dug into side of the hills. It is a phenomenal spot and you get a sense of excitement to think that you're going to sleep rough in a place like this. You are tucked into the side of the hill, which doesn't afford the grandest of views, but you can look up the side of the hill to look at the heather (in the autumn at lesat) and a little waterfall that trickles its way down the slope. In addition, you can walk to the bottom of the hill on the main campsite and stroll down to the seashore and catch a good view of inlet, especially if the weather is clear.

One of the more secluded walk-in sites,
just a few steps from the main camping area

The campsites themselves are green and grassy, but the ground is generally sloped which can be create a bit of a challenge if you're trying to stay comfy in a sleeping bag. We were really impressed with the walk-in sites, which had a very private feel to them. We didn't feel like lugging our gear and setting up on one and I seem to recall the firepits being a bit better in the main camping area (though overall, they're still not great and you need to bring your own wood). The amenities (washing up facilities, washroom) are shared with the occupants of the bothy, which is fine and we had a few friendly chats with the occupants. The facilities were all in good order and sufficient for the small crowd that we had sharing the plots with us that day. The Badlarrach website suggests that the bothy becomes a common social/eating area for campers if it isn't reserved for sole use, but we did not have the pleasure of using it for that purpose.

We were visiting in Autumn, so I must warn that the midges were out as a merciless force; I suppose the midge buster was down for the season. However, as you can see from the photos, the site merits a look (just be sure to put on a midge hat). A great spot to begin a drive up the west coast of Scotland.

The setting of Badrallach Campsite

View from the nearby shore
(20 mins walk from campsite)

You mostly only share the landscape
with the sheep 

Review: Rossport Campground, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park

View from one of the spectacular waterfront sites
at Rossport Campground

Location: 2 hours E of Thunder Bay; 5 hours NW of Sault Ste. Marie
Website: Ontario Parks 
Map: Google
Camping Facilities: Frontcountry / Car Camping
Grade: C+
Stargazing: Good
Summary: Some nice car camping with lake-front campsites, even though it's right on the highway.
Thoughts: Well it served me right for not doing too much research. I had planned to do some backcountry camping in Sleeping Giant PP, so that I could spend the afternoon enjoying its fantastic hiking trails. It turns out that the backcountry camping required a substantial chunk of hiking just to get set up. In fact, from what I could see, it was a 5 km hike just to get into the sites (I've included the backcountry map below - I really wish that Ontario Parks would post these on their website!), which was too far for one night IMHO. So I had to bail on my camping plans and settle for the bumpy drive up to the lookout over Thunder Bay (which is unreal! you have to check it out!).

A nice spot to stargaze if the skies cooperate

So I did the 2 hour drive down to Rainbow Falls instead, and it was a good thing as it would have been pretty miserable drive to Lake Superior PP the next day if I hadn't. I arrived pretty late at Rainbow Falls, getting close to supper time. I had the choice between the Rossport Campground (which is right on Lake Superior) and the Whitesand Lake Campground. So essentially, your choice is a view over shrubbery or a view over Lake Superior - it's an easy one to make. I drove around Whitesand just in case there were some nice ones that actually overlook the lake, but couldn't find any (at least, none that were available), so I just headed back to Rossport.

First lookout on Rainbow Falls trail

The check-in at the gate was typical Ontario Parks - friendly, helpful, trying to make sure you get the camping experience you're after. At both gatehouses they insisted that I roam around and have a look for a site that I like best. (Aside: this is something that will only happen in less busy parks - in Bon Echo or Pinery, you pretty well take what they have, because your site will probably be gone by the time you get back to the gatehouse). Highway noise is again an issue, but that's the price of convenience. I mean, pulling over and camping next to Gitchigumi with no reservation in peak of summer for about $40 - you can make do.

Sure, it's loud but a primo seat for
watching thundering water

A few of the sites afford a fantastic view of Lake Superior as they are right on the shore; but I must say, there are only about 4 high quality sites, and the campsites that are not adjacent to the lake were not very good. Even still some of the sites next to the lake were not actually on the water - in fact, the lake wasn't even accessible for a few of these. However, many of those sites had good under story for privacy though astoundingly, these were sometimes positioned directly across from one another (hello privacy...so long privacy).

Blueberries in various
stages of development

Rainbow Falls -
photos do not do it justice!

The following day I ventured up to the hike to Rainbow Falls (fantastic) in the Whitesand Lake campground, followed by the two lookouts (which were well worth it, mainly because of all the wild blueberries near the lookouts!). I recommend the hikes, the thundering water of Rainbow Falls takes no time to reach and will keep you entertained for a while (especially if try out your best Ansel Adams impersonation).

Backcountry map of Sleeping Giant Provincial Park
(circa 2015)

Review: Hattie Cove Campground, Pukaskwa National Park

Playter Harbour, Coastal Hiking Trail

Location: Hattie Cove Campground, Pukaskwa National Park
Website: Parks Canada
Map: Parks Canada
Camping Facilities: Car Camping
Grade: B
Stargazing: Good by the Lake
Summary:Average camping enhanced by being close to glorious Lake Superior and pristine forest setting
Thoughts: The plan was to make my way along the Trans Canada highway towards Thunder Bay, aiming to meet up with some friends along the drive for some camping. I originally had Slate Islands Provincial Park in mind, after reading this article about it's dense elk population (imagine having elk roaming through your site). I was stoked, but then I found out it would cost $500 for a return shuttle from Terrance Bay. Split between 6 couples for one week, you could make a strong case for it. But with just 3 people staying only one night, it would be a total waste. So my friends suggested Pukaskwa (pronounced Puck-a-Saw, as I quickly found out). I had been meaning to see it for quite some time, and figured that it's a low-stress option to enjoy the company of old friends whom I hadn't seen in a while.

Lookout over Halfway Lake

The camping itself was just okay. Some sites are a little more private than others; you'll find that some are inexplicably directly across from one another, with only your cars to provide the necessary screen to avoid any awkward eye contact. But a few sites are large and pretty private. I wanted to see 48, which is a bit off the road and sits next to Halfway Lake, but it was occupied and I was told it's a bit buggy (you can see in the photo on the right that Halfway Lake is a bit swampy). Site 46 would be a winner if it weren't clearly visible from the path to the comfort station. Speaking of which, the comfort stations in the park are clean and comfortable. And as with all National Parks, you pay twice - the entrance "day-use" fee and the camping fee - which I find a bit irritating, but it still ends up being cheaper than car camping in Ontario Parks (by about $3 - 2015 fees). The park staff I dealt with were really thoughtful and allow you to take a drive around to see what site you like best, then register after you've had a gander. You're likely to find something good, but yea, nothing special.

Middle Beach, with it's piles of driftwood

But putting the camping aside, the setting of the park itself is phenomenal. Just a short 5 minute walk from the campground, you're on Lake Superior, with its thunderous waves drowning out any thoughts of the real world that might have followed you on your trip. You could stare at the Lake for hours, watching it play Hot Potato with the beach, as the waves toss the driftwood to the beach and the beach rolls it right back. And at night you'll find that the Middle and North Beaches (probably Horseshoe Beach too) are spectacular for stargazing. The day hikes to Manito Mikana, Horseshoe Beach, and the Southern Headland Trail are all well worth the trip and you'll be entranced by the vistas. I thought the lookout over Halfway Lake (above) was worthwhile (just after you start a counterclockwise tour from the trailhead), but the rest of the hike looked a bit boring so I skipped it. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Boardwalk at the beginning of the
Pukaskwa Coastal Hiking Trail

The highlight of the park is the Coastal Hiking Trail. With its many campsites and nearly pristine Lake Superior coastal scenery, it is a worthy adventure. There is justification for the use the word "pristine", as you can see from this map that Pukaskwa is one of the last remaining intact forest landscapes in the southern half of the province, as discovered by the IFL mapping team. I was only able to hike to the first campsite, but even that one (Playter Harbour) was something to behold (top of the page here). The backcountry site itself was really spacious, with an outhouse, fire pit and food locker. I'm curious about the other sites, as they contain up to six individual sites - are these clustered together? Or are they somewhat private? Please comment below if you know. As well, I should point out that the trail is well marked and easy to follow, but would be very slippery in spots after a bit of rain.

Lookout from Southern Headland Trail

I'd love to come back and at least make it to the White River Suspension bridge, but it's a full day hike (leave before 10am). A fellow hiker informed me that he wanted to do a one-way hike and get a shuttle back from the North Swallow river, but the guiding company was going to charge him $500 for the trip back so he just walked the whole stretch in a return trip (solo no less!). What is it with $500 shuttling fees in this part of the province? Regardless, Pukaskwa is worth your effort because it's just a beautiful spot - the camping is a means to discover the splendor of this unique wilderness refuge.

Food locker on the
Coastal Hiking Trail

Outhouse on the Coastal Hiking Trail

.

Review: Pancake Bay Provincial Park

Location: 75 km North of Sault Ste. Marie (1hr drive)

Pathway to beach at

Pancake Bay Provincial Park

Website: Ontario Parks
Map: Google Maps
Camping Facilities: Car Camping
Grade: C-
Stargazing: Good on the lake shore
Summary: Highway noise, beautiful beach, radio free sites are a downer
Thoughts: When you're making your way north towards the splendor of the upper regions of Ontario, you may be tempted to make your first stop in Pancake Bay PP for the night. It makes sense - it's about an 8-hour drive from Toronto, 9 hours from Ottawa, which is about as much as any average driver can take in a single sitting. But a good location and provincial park status don't always equal happiness in adventuring in Central/Northern Ontario.

View south along Pancake Bay Provincial Park

You might notice from any map that Pancake Bay is sandwiched between the Trans Canada Highway and Lake Superior. As a result, I challenge you to find a site that doesn't automatically provide you with a complimentary Highway 17 white noise machine to lull you to sleep at night (or wreck any sense of being one with nature). The sites are very close to the highway. Highway noise is even cleary audible in the radio free sites, which are nearly as far as you can get from the highway in this park. I was camped on site 25 near the comfort station at the Hilltop Campground and was pretty disappointed. Radio free sites are not scenic and the ones close to the marsh were very buggy, even in August. But if you have a high tolerance for highway noise, or are positioned close enough to the crashing waves of Lake Superior, you might be able to bear it.

To be fair, the park isn't simply a random sliver of sand wedged between water and pavement. The beach is beautiful albeit a bit narrow. I think it's probably a great place for families, due to the shallow waters on much of the beach and the overall quality of the amenities. For a camper who wants seclusion and peace, look elsewhere.

Map of Pancake Bay Provincial Park Campground

(Source: Pancake Bay PP Tabloid, 2015)

View north along Pancake Bay Provincial Park

Review: Car Camping, North Lees Campsite, Peak District National Park, United Kingdom

Peak District from Stanage Edge

Location: 30 mins from Sheffield (10 miles)
Website:  National Park or Campsite
Map: Google Maps
Camping Facilities: Car camping
Grade: C
Stargazing: Good
Summary: Acceptable camping experience in the UK (my first)
Thoughts: After entering the park with little fanfare (the color of the terrain on my GPS changed from beige to green, if I'm not mistaken), I knew that I had to keep my expectations in check.  No park office, no visible change in land use, sheep eyeing you suspiciously -  clearly things are done differently here. As we zigged and zagged along the country roads, we had hopes that the vast wilderness that is the Peak District National Park would eventually reveal itself around the next bend. It does, but not in the way that we're used to. But that's okay. The UK is a small country with a relatively large population (compared to Canada), so one can only expect a certain level of solitude and remoteness. And maybe within the campground itself things would be different. Well it was, and it wasn't.

Sheep and grazing fields

- mainstays of UK National Parks

The flocks of sheep that greet you on the roadsides within the National Park were not welcome in the North Lees Campsite. No sir, gates and fences made their access impossible. A win for conservation! The camping experience, however, was consistently frustrating as the rest of the drive to that point. First off, the site was sloped, and quite dramatically so.  Good luck finding a level spot to sleep comfortably. Second, there is no demarcation of campsites. It's a total free-for-all. Where ever you'd like to stop walking/carrying gear, well, that's as good as any spot, friend. Thirdly, no demarcation of sites also means no privacy.  None. Nor are there many picnic benches to cook your breakfast (most people seemed to be happy to do so on the ground but we grabbed one of the few that there were).  Last, there are no campfires. Given that there are so few trees in the region to begin with, it's probably for the best. But yeah: "sigh".

Nice spot to wash dishes

Bears aren't an issue...

Sheep - you are fenced OUT!

Some good points that I need to bring up. The place is very tidy. You have nice shower facilities as well as running water for washing dishes (a bit of a hike from some of the "sites", so bring a container of some sort, like a bucket or camping sink). You also have recycling facilities and very kinds, friendly staff running the place.  And the connectivity to the splendid hiking trails within steps of the campground is excellent. Another bonus - you can walk to the pubs in Hathersage in about half an hour. In doing so, you'll stroll through quaint English countryside and maybe learn to appreciate it on its own merits, and not in relation to those of a totally different country that has no physical resemblance to the one you're living in, so you might as well stop whinging about it.

A second camping space that is a bit flatter

As a Canadian out on their first camping trip in the UK, I could have done worse than North Lees. Once you have acclimatized to the setting and your eyes have adjusted to the local scenery, you'll probably find that it does what it does pretty well. It's just different, that's all.

Interpretive sign maintenance varies...

Weather may vary as well

View from Stanage Edge

Peak District National Park

Mam Tor

Mam Tor was a gusty spot that day

Some trails veer onto private land,

but the signage will get you back

on track

Roadway carved right into

a drainage channel