Review: Bon Echo Provincial Park - Joeperry Lake

Location: 70 km N of Napanee, ON
Website: Ontario Parks or Friends of Bon Echo
Map: Google Maps

Camping Facilities: Canoe-In / Backcountry Lite
Grade: B+
Stargazing: Excellent
Summary: Great backcountry experience for novices, easy access, some sites are densely clustered, but generally tolerable


Joeperry and Pearson Lakes Map
(Source: Bon Echo Park Tabloid, 2008)

Thoughts: If you're looking for a pseudo-backcountry experience without much work, Joeperry is a good option. I've been taking first-time campers here for years and I don't think I've had one person come away disappointed. It's a big enough lake to allow for a good number of campsites, but small enough that paddling to them isn't a battle.

There's an easy 500m portage to the lake, along a wide access road that has a few ups and downs (the steepest hill is right at the end, approaching the water, but you walk downhill when going into the lake, which is a relief). As well, there's a decent little beach at the north end of Joeperry.  There are usually a few families of loons that are active on this lake, plentiful deer (have had morning visits on my site on occasion), mischievous raccoons, and a pack of coyotes (often audible at night), which add an additional wilderness element. There is even some bear activity from time to time, so you'll want to hang your food properly (a cooler with a few heavy rocks on it won't cut it).

Joeperry lake from site 508

Regarding the sites - some are a touch close together, but generally you can't see other campers. You can often hear other campers, but it's a reasonably big lake, so the noise shouldn't be a big disturbance. All sites have a privy box, firepit, and picnic tables. Sites 503-511 have some positive and negative points (like all things in life).  The closest sites are all adjacent to you, so you can't see them; unless your neighbours are noisy, you will hardly know anyone else is around.  These sites can be rocky and some are difficult to dock at without getting your booties wet. That being said, they're generally the last to be booked so unless you plan early, these sites may be the only options available (though my point is that it isn't a terrible thing). Additionally, they're all connected by a footpath, so if you have a very large group, you can easily access each other's sites without having to get back into your boat.

The island sites (especially 520) are very popular, though inexplicably so in my opinion.  520 gets a lot of traffic around it from people trying to reach the 503-511, in addition to curious paddlers just exploring the lake. As well, 520 is on a slope and it can be difficult to find good spots for multiple tents. Sites 522 & 523 are flatter (though smaller as well), but we've had issues with raccoons here (heck, we've had issues with raccoons all over this lake).

Pearson lake, which is connected to Joeperry, is a reasonable option, though accessing it can be difficult. You either head south from the dock through a maze of reeds (navigable, but it might get tricky in low light) or go the long way around the island. It is a nice lake and the sites feel more remote, so if you're not arriving too late in the day, you might want to consider Pearson.

Overall, I do recommend Joeperry. It was my very first canoe-camping experience, and it changed my whole perception of what camping can be. While seasoned canoe-campers won`t find much challenge or adventure going to Joeperry, it`s probably one of the best places to take new campers to show them the wonders of Canadian shield country.

Hiking: There is only one hike in this park that I can recommend and it`s the Cliff Top Trail. Great view from the top of the rock (you have to pay to be ferried across to the trail, just a few dollars though). The Shield trail is incredibly boring with very few sights. The "lookout" towards the end of the trail was sub-par, mostly obstructed by trees. Don't even bother with the Abes and Essens Lake trail. I've hiked the 9km loop and, while mildly challenging due to its length, it is a let down. Not much scenery to be found and it can be very buggy.

Carvings of Walt Whitman Poetry
 on the Bon Echo Rock

Paddling to the Bon Echo Rock